SonicVI wrote:I don't think so. These run off a pair of 9 volts only, no power supply unless it's been modified, in which case you'd need two power supplies or a bi-polar supply, which also seems like an unlikely mod.
Yes, it's 2 x 9V batteries only - no other power supply.
Do you guys think it's going to be worth fixing? I raised a paypal dispute and I have the option of returning it, but then I'm ~$40-something shipping back and forth for nothing. But if I hang onto it, and it's going to cost an arm and a leg to fix...
I can't see any other obvious damage than the cap. How can I tell if it just broke vs. blew up/got fried taking everything else with it?
devnulljp wrote: How can I tell if it just broke vs. blew up/got fried taking everything else with it?
A digital multimeter and audio probe are your friends, my friend. Check out the troubleshooting FX guide at http://www.diystompboxes.com (what to do when it doesn't work) for lots of good tips.
Those aren't worth a great deal, what $150 in good shape maybe? I would try to get my money back, and who knows, with the seller being gone from ebay maybe you can get the mone back and keep the pedal
"If you want to write rock lyrics you must learn about where the Hobbits dwell."
devnulljp wrote: How can I tell if it just broke vs. blew up/got fried taking everything else with it?
A digital multimeter and audio probe are your friends, my friend. Check out the troubleshooting FX guide at http://www.diystompboxes.com (what to do when it doesn't work) for lots of good tips.
Those aren't worth a great deal, what $150 in good shape maybe? I would try to get my money back, and who knows, with the seller being gone from ebay maybe you can get the mone back and keep the pedal
Naughty! Paypal wants me to ship it back to the seller, at my expense, though so that won't fly.
There's also two wires that don't go anywhere
I'm guessing one goes to the output jack (which only has one wire attached now). The other, from the switch, I have no idea.
It is possible that the output jack actually doesn't have any conenction, cause the grounding might be achieved via the case. However, if there is solder on that jack's ring (which I don't see in the pictures), then you know one of the cables was connected there.
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All right, some progress here, I'm now pretty sure that one of the 'disconnections' is for power, so that's the first reason your effect isn't working. I'll carefully look at the pictures and compare to what they sould be connected to give you some better guidance.
Last edited by fuzzer on Sat May 30, 2009 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
fuzzer wrote:It is possible that the output jack actually doesn't have any conenction, cause the grounding might be achieved via the case. However, if there is solder on that jack's ring (which I don't see in the pictures), then you know one of the cables was connected there.
I dug through my other EHX pedals and they only have one wire on the output, so you're right.
I messaged EHXMan Ron Nealy and he's going to dig out a wiring diagram for me, then we'll see if it even works.
However, if you don't mind checking this, I'm now guessing that the red wire from one of the battery clips is missing, that would be the hanging wire that is going to the lowes pad on the PCB (adjacent to the switch). That pad is in turn holding the black wire of the other Battery clip. (It is ground, 0 [V])
And, the other broken wire should go to the negative voltage pad, to figure that one out it would be useful if you took some pictures from the component side of the board.
fuzzer wrote:Well, Neely is clearly the man for it.
However, if you don't mind checking this, I'm now guessing that the red wire from one of the battery clips is missing, that would be the hanging wire that is going to the lowes pad on the PCB (adjacent to the switch). That pad is in turn holding the black wire of the other Battery clip. (It is ground, 0 [V])
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And, the other broken wire should go to the negative voltage pad, to figure that one out it would be useful if you took some pictures from the component side of the board.
You're right...one of the battery snaps had no red wire.
Here's the component side of the board.
One of the wires is coming of the battery on/off switch, so that's definitely a 9V lead. The other looks to be soldered to either a 9V or a ground trace. Provided these wires and that cap are the only problem this should be an easy fix with that schematic.
"If you want to write rock lyrics you must learn about where the Hobbits dwell."
So, as I told you, you'll have to replace the wasted battery clip and the filter capacitor.
And the other hanging wire goes to the point noted on this picture;
It corresponds to the negative voltage rail. The picture might have tricked me but if you check continuity between that point and all the 27K resistors, it should be the same node.
Attachments
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Last edited by fuzzer on Sat May 30, 2009 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SonicVI wrote:One of the wires is coming of the battery on/off switch, so that's definitely a 9V lead. The other looks to be soldered to either a 9V or a ground trace. Provided these wires and that cap are the only problem this should be an easy fix with that schematic.
Im a doofus with schems. Is this my on/off switch:
Does this look right for the wire from the on/off switch?